Quail, the most diminutive bird we can roast, demands to be picked up at the table, its bones nibbled and sucked almost clean. If you can't bear such table manners by all means use a knife and fork.

2 tsps slightly heaped Chinese five spice (non organic)
½ -1 tsp Cayenne Chilli powder, organic
4 quail
1 large clove garlic
1 lemon – the juice of
2 tbsp cooking oil

Set the oven at 200°C/gas 6. Peel and mash the garlic. Put it in a bowl then stir in the ground chillie, the five spice powder, lemon juice and the oil. Season generously with sea salt - a good half teaspoon. Dip the quail in and toss them gently round. You can leave it like this for several hours if it suits you, though just one will do.
Put the birds and any marinating juices into a small roasting tin. They should be close, but not actually touching. Roast them for 15 to 20 minutes, depending on their size, turning once. The little birds will look quite dark after the full cooking time, but this is fine. Serve them piping hot with orange or lemon wedges to squeeze and some crusty bread.

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